Revue Noble Rot issue 16, Generation Burgundy
Date de publication
Nombre de pages
23 x 17 cm
500 g

Revue Noble Rot issue 16

Generation Burgundy

Noble Rot

Driving past the roll-call of superstar vineyards on Burgundy's RN74 is thirsty work. Puligny-Montrachet! Meursault! Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne-Romanee and Gevrey-Chambertin! Stop the car, I need a drink! After all, these are names that have launched a thousand lunchtimes; names that, once wedded with the correct combination of producer and vintage, mean you're about to embark on one of the most pleasurable vinous experiences known to man. Today, winemaking in these sainted communes has never been better, so much so that Noble Rot didn't taste a single bad bottle on our recent visits. But for many drinkers who can't keep pace with Burgundy's spiralling prices, the best news is that a new generation of vignerons are also making brilliant wines in the less-appreciated appellations. Take Claire Naudin in little known Magny-les-Villers, for example. "Pinot Noir can have so many styles from one place; being so sensitive to microclimate and microterroir there's potential to express it so differently," she says over glasses of Hautes-Cotes de Beaune `Orchis', a humble AOC wine which drinks like a premier cru. Who says quality is hidebound to hierarchy, anyway? Certainly not Naudin, or the rising stars of Burgundy featured on page 40. Staying on the theme of shit hot Pinot Noir, here we also consider the legacy of Henri Jayer — the vineyard worker who became the region's most important winemaker (p.58); meet "The Wizard" of Vosne-Romanee, Jean-Yves Bizot (p.56); ponder what to eat with our stash of precious Roumiers (p.94); and suffer Neal Martin describe drinking an impossibly rare 1942 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg Vignes Originale Francaise (p.102); possibly just one of his usual midweek tipples. Elsewhere, the distinct whiff of fantasy pervades Noble Rot 16. From daydreaming about opening London's first Singaporean black pepper crab restaurant (p.4) and naming our 'Desert Island Wine Lists' (p.10), we feature an exposé on lost cookbooks allegedly penned by the great and the good of gastronomy that sank without trace (p.14). From Fergus Henderson's ahead of the curve From Bollock To Arsehole, to Yotam Ottolenghi's Actually, I Hate Pomegranates, you certainly won't have these on your kitchen shelves. Lastly, we're thrilled to feature interviews with Californian food trailblazer Alice Waters, amber wine visionary JoAko Gravner and the uniquely talented Baxter Dury, as well as profiles on super-deluxe wine tastings, Manchester's kebab scene, Bouillon Chartier, Chateldon water, Coq au Riesling and a gastronomic tour of Georgia, among much more. Now, if you'll excuse me, all this talk about Burgundy has left me in dire need of refreshment; hope to see you at Noble Rot restaurant and wine bar very soon... Dan Keeling, London, March 2018 Louis Roederer Food & Wine Writer of the Year 2017 Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year 2016
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